There aren't many restaurant reviewers who I trust to say clearly what they think without adding in a touch of egomania. Jay Rayner of the Observer is one of the ones I trust. He was the first serious reviewer I'd ever read who didn't shy away from clear negative reviews, as well as good positive ones.
Why am I writing this? Because one of his most recent reviews is marvellous. Here are a few quotes from his review of London restaurant Suka from 29 April 2007.
Any attempt at conversation – 'God I hate this place. How can they live with themselves,' etc – kept being interrupted by waiters trudging off into the distance and back again
The one advantage of this set-up was that the waitress was so far away from me, and the music so loud, I couldn't really hear her recitation of the menu's 'concept'.
Anyway, having eaten there, I can sum it up myself: 'We are now going to extort as much money from you in as short a period as possible for as lacklustre a meal as we can get away with.'
Now go and read the whole thing. It's great!
UPDATE: I'm not alone in cyberspace when it comes to expressing respect for Jay Rayner. If you're interested, take a look at what Silverbrow has to say.